Section 1. History and Nature of the Cat

A. Small wildcats live in Europe and Africa. The Egyptians started storing grain around 5000 years ago, and this of course attracted rodents who fed on the grain. The small and beautiful African wildcat, whose scientific name is Felis lybica, found easy hunting grounds at these storage bins. The local villagers became aware of the hunting prowess of the cats. They were also attracted by the beauty of the cat and befriended the animals. Thus began the domestication of the cat, Felis Catus, as we know him today. Our domestic cat is more likely descended from the African wildcat because the European wildcat is pretty much untamable, whereas Felis lybica to this day hangs around villages in Africa, and, when they are young, can be tamed.

A. All domestic cats, no matter what breed they are, are from the same species, Felis catus. Actually in Britain, Europe and America only 7 percent of the cats are pedigreed. The most popular cat is still the "moggie" or random bred cat.

A. There are around 100 different and distinct cat breeds. Some pedigree cats are natural breeds and others are the result of special breeding.

A. Cats are complex creatures, and no two are alike. The answer to what is a feral cat is therefore also fairly complex. Biologist Roger Tabor describes the term "feral" as one applied to an animal that was once domesticated but has reverted to a wild state, or more properly has reverted from a domestic to a free-living state. If a cat is tossed out by the guardian, or roams away from home and gets lost, as many unsterilized cats are prone to do, and then left to fend for themselves, most can revert to their wild instincts inherited from their wild ancestor, the African wildcat. While it is true that many do suffer, especially the first generation, or when they struggle to find food and shelter, subsequent feral generations that survive to adulthood, become very successful at survival, which accounts for the number of feral cats living in almost every city and town in the world. They are an opportunistic animal and have filled niches left by other predators that humans have either killed off or who left after urban and suburban development. Any cat can become feral, even a pure-bred cat. Most feral cat caretakers have seen feral Siamese, feral Burmese, feral Persians. Long-haired feral cats have very badly matted fur and some caretakers have to re-trap them each year to get their fur shaved off.

Section 2. Feline Diseases

A. Feline leukemia (FeLV) is a virus that affects around 4 percent of all cats (feral or domestic). Cats can be tested with a simple in-house kit or the blood can be sent to a lab. If a cat tests positive, it does not necessarily mean a death sentence for the cat. The good news is that the cat can fight off the virus, which is why a second test is vital around 2 to 3 months after the first positive test. The other good news is that a cat can live for many years after testing positive. Usually the younger the cat, the more serious the initial infection is and the less his chances are for survival. So one has several options to consider when a cat tests positive. If you are a cat rescuer, in our opinion, you should vaccinate your own cats for FeLV, to give them added protection in case you bring in a cat with this virus. And brief, casual contact will not put your cats at risk. It has to be prolonged contact, prolonged sharing of litter boxes and food bowls, and mutual grooming.

A. Many individuals and many groups that work with feral cats, usually have limited resources, and therefore no longer test for FeLV. Julie Levy, DVM, founder of Operation Catnip, realized that her group could sterilize more feral cats if they stopped spending the money on testing. She had done research projects in California and in North Carolina where she discovered that the rates of FeLV among feral cats was the same as that in the domestic population, with a few exceptions-and the rates are pretty low at that. This led her to say: "Feral cats pose no more risk to companion animals than do free-roaming pet cats. It is the unneutered cats that wander, fight, and reproduce that are most likely to spread these diseases, regardless of whether they live in feral colonies or in private homes." Dr. Levy believes: "that reproduction causes more miserable deaths (in colonies) than do these viruses." She goes on to say: "we have to remember that the largest cause of death of cats in the U.S. is overpopulation and homelessness. Euthanasia of unwanted cats claims the lives of more cats than all infectious diseases combined. " So you may want to consider NOT testing for these viral diseases, if you have a healthy colony of cats, and spending the money saved on sterilizing even more feral cats. Of course, if the cats are showing signs of illness, a test should be done.

A. Feline herpesvirus-1 and feline calicivirus are common causes of feline upper respiratory diseases (URI). Treatment is usually symptomatic. Vaccination will not prevent all URI infections but can minimize severity of the disease. Infections may be acquired by coming in contact with an infected cat, organisms present in the environment or even from a "carrier" cat. Cat shelters, breeders, and boarding facilities may have these viruses and you should thus ensure that your cat is properly vaccinated before taking him for boarding. Travel to cat shows or to the veterinary clinic can sometimes cause stress and reactivate the virus. Feline herpesvirus may cause corneal ulcers. Orphan kittens are more susceptible to these viruses if they have not been with their mothers for long as they will not have acquired immunity from the mother cat. They should certainly not be taken away from their mothers for the first ten days. If kittens get sick while still nursing, you can feed antibiotics to the mother cat who will pass this along in her milk. Antibiotics are usually recommended to prevent bacterial infections. They will of course not work on the virus. The cat should be given plenty of good food and water and kept warm. Eye medications are helpful. In severe cases, the URI's can cause the death of kittens or cause blindness. So medical treatment and good care should be started as quickly as possible.

A. Internal parasites Hookworms, roundworms, whip worms, and tapeworms attach to the intestinal wall and can cause illness. If cats or kittens start vomiting (a lot) have a pot-belly, and lose weight you may suspect worms. Tapeworm can sometimes be seen as little "rice-like" pieces. Roundworms can be thrown up, and looks like spaghetti. All these parasites can and should be treated, especially in kittens as they can make them very sick, and even cause their death. Coccidia is another internal parasite that is common in kittens. It pays to get a fecal test done so that you can provide the correct medication. External parasites. Of course fleas can be a persistent problem. The animal and the environment should be treated. Always have a flea comb on hand to check for fleas or flea dirt. Nowadays it is much easier to treat fleas with Revolution or Frontline. It is placed on the back of the cat between the shoulder blades and keeps the animal flea-free for 30 days. Revolution has the advantage of treating certain parasites as well, such as earmites and worms.

Section 3. What to do if you find a stray or feral cat

A. Do not panic! This can only make it worse. Usually when a cat escapes from a house, he is very frightened by his new surroundings and will find a place close by to hide. Put food and water out in several places. If you see him, don't scare him off by rushing at him. This can push him away even further. Take your time, and try making friends with him with food. He will be scared and sometimes escapees act as though they have never seen their guardians before in their lives. If you cannot find him after a day or two: Call your local animal control agency and those in the surrounding areas. Put notices in local newspapers. Put up signs with photos on telephone poles and at the vet. offices. Scatter his used cat litter around your yard. Some cats find open sheds and garages nearby to hide in. Visit your neighbors and ask if they can check these for you. If you cannot catch him by hand, it may be easier to use a humane trap to get him.

A: Try to find out if the cat has a home. Call your local animal shelter and place notices in local newspapers. Get him checked by your veterinarian. Keep him isolated in your house and make sure your other cats are up-to-date on their shots. If you cannot keep him, get him fixed and find him a good home. Call friends, family, and colleagues and put up signs at your vets' office. Chances are that if you take him to your local shelter, they will euthanize him, as they usually have too many animals. Do not run FREE TO GOOD HOME ADS. These are mostly dangerous, and unscrupulous people may take him. Find out if any local "No-Kill" shelter in your area could take him.

A. Find out if any group in your area already has a humane T-N-R (trap-neuter-return) program. They may be able to help you. If not: You will need to implement a TNR program yourself. Alley Cat Rescue has all the information you will need to help you get started. Check our Cat Action Links web page or email us.

A. First, do try to find the mother. It is difficult to hand raise any young animal. If you cannot find her, you should keep the kitten warm. A very little kitten should be kept on a "heating pad" even during the summer months. Wrap the heating pad in a towel or sheet, so that it does not burn the kitten. They cannot regulate their own body temperatures, and may not be able to move off the heating pad if it gets too hot. Ideally, they need their mother and their siblings to stay warm.

Feeding: Next, you should obtain some special kitten milk from a pet store or your veterinarian. This milk is specially formulated to feed kittens or pregnant or nursing mother cats. If it is the middle of the night, cows milk will work for a couple of feedings until you can get the kitten milk, but you need to add an egg yolk. This should only be for short-term feedings. A very young kitten needs to be fed around the clock. The instructions are on the container. Feed first with a dropper. This is easier to use at the beginning than getting the kitten used to the bottle. Eventually, you can try a bottle. You must stimulate the kitten's tummy after each feeding to make his bodily functions work. I like to use tissues or paper towels. This will help with clean-up. Use warm water to keep these areas clean. Remember the mother cat usually does all of this for him.